![]() There are many options to mount the components on the robot chassis, including the use of hot glue, double-sided tape, or screws. Some Male-Male and Male-Female jumpers to hook up the components.two 3-6 V DC plastic gearbox motors (a.k.a.a swivel caster wheel/ a ball caster (it's all your choice, in my case I used a home-made caster for my robot).a type A/B USB cable (to upload code to your Arduino).a two-slot 18650 battery holder with switch.two 3.7 V 18650 Li-ion batteries (power supply for your motors).a 9 Volts battery (power supply for your Arduino).a servo motor (I used an SG90 Tower Pro hobby servo).I will also show you the key features of this module that is necessary for the project along with the guide. See more information on how to use the Motor Driver here. And they both sink to a common ground named ‘GND’." Vss is used for driving the logic circuitry which can be 5 to 7V. From Vs pin, the H-Bridge gets its power for driving the motors which can be 5 to 35V. "The L298N motor driver IC actually has two input power pins: ‘Vss’ and ‘Vs’. The followings are the specification from : But don't worry just yet - I will address an easy way to solve this later! You may also encounter some weird servo's operation if the battery supply is not able to provide constant power, causing problems with Arduino resets and resulting in servo jitters or not working. Furthermore, in most cases, two separate DC power supplies are required for Arduino and motors. An extra breadboard may also be necessary for power and ground connections. The Arduino and the Motor Driver placed separately will occupy some more space on the robot chassis. Since we can use all Arduino's pins (on the Motor Shield the number of pins available for use is reduced by more than a half), there are more pins available for more functionalities! The concern for a burnt-out chip is much less here since each channel on the module can deliver up to 2A to the DC motor plus a big chunky heat sink can protect the module from a possible thermal failure (The heat sink make the driver look cooler too by the way). Though there is no pre-built library for this module, we can set motors' speed by using Arduino's PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) pins and some simple lines of code. ![]() ![]() It requires only some wiring - no soldering. ![]() You can check more information regarding the shield's specifications here. Last but not least, once you head towards 1A you'll probably want to put a heatsink on the motor driver, otherwise you will get a thermal failure, possibly burning out the chip (I knew it since mine was burnt out). Adafruit Motor Shield) library and other libraries. Also, the shield uses an Arduino timer for servos' operation, which may cause Timer Conflicts between the "AFMotor.h" (i.e. Some soldering skills are required to solder pin headers onto the shield. Lastly, a single DC power supply can be used for the Arduino and motors, after that the shield will handle the rest to ensure your servos and motors will operate properly. Secondly, we can also set motors' speed and define maximum speed by software using the Adafruit Motor Shield library. When to use Arduino Motor Shield L293D?įirstly, we can save some space on the robot chassis, plus much fewer jumpers are used for wiring up when using the Motor Shield compared to the L298N Motor Driver. That being said, let's have a quick look at the comparison below to choose the best fit.ġ. In this project, I'm going to walk you through how to make a simple Arduino Flinching Robot step by step for those who prefer the L298N H-bridge Motor Driver to the Motor Shield.īefore we get started, have you ever wondered whether to choose an Arduino Motor Shield or an L298N Motor Driver for your project? I personally prefer the L298N Motor Driver because we can then use more of our Arduino's pins to add some more functions to our robot!
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